Chillin’ in Melbourne

Nice to be back in this lovely city for a few days before our holiday ends.

Stunning high 20s weather the first day, enjoyed the sunrise and hot air balloons going past the window- nice when you are 40 floors up. Took the free city circle tram around the central area, walked through the gardens, around the Yarra  loop between city bridges and along city streets. See info on Angel Sculpture and The Federation Bells below.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birrarung_Marr,_Melbourne

 

 

 

Lovely old buildings and facades being preserved. Multiple cranes at work in the city. Plenty of nice restaurants and coffee places to choose from. Checked out a couple of bars and caught up with people.

 

 

A little bit of rain early morning today has cleared for a walk around the city and down to the docklands to enjoy the developments and sculptures.

Really wanted to see a couple of exhibitions and the domed La Trobe Reading Room at the “open as usual” State Library Victoria however those features were closed when we got there as builders were making too much noise! Disappointing as only a few paintings to look at amidst millions of books.  The item showing fallow deer at Richmond Park took my fancy though seeing some happy hours were spent there when in London!

Great dinners here at Kenzan, No 35 and Chin Chin. Enjoying the lights across the way tonight at Melbourne Arena-apparently it’s Monster Jam!

Home to NZ tomorrow 🤔

 

Photos around Melbourne

To Melbourne

 

Short drive to Melbourne today to complete the Great Ocean Road trip. Lots of tour buses going the other way thankfully.

Lovely little bays on the last stretch much less rocky than previous day along the coast. This stretch would be much easier to maintain. There were lots of roadworks yesterday (high maintenance road with sheer cliff faces plunging to sea/road).

Stopped just short of Aireys Inlet where the Memorial Arch spans the Great Ocean Road, as a reminder that this roadway is the world’s largest war memorial.

The road was constructed by returned serviceman in memory of their mates lost in WW1. Between 1919 and 1932, 3000 returned serviceman carved the 234km route from cliff faces using  explosives, small machinery picks, shovels and wheelbarrows. The physical work provided employment and purpose after the war and also opened up access to isolated communities along the coast.

The Split Point Lighthouse and a dramatic looking house (?) stand out on the next section of road at Aireys Inlet itself.

Anglesea and Torquay have lovely surf beaches with the latter including the beautiful Bells Beach known as the “golden mile.” Torquay is famous as the home of surfing and the iconic brands Rip Curl and Quiksilver.

 

And on to Melbourne through Geelong, a fairly unremarkable drive.

Stunning views though from our hotel  room on the 4oth floor over the Yarra and out to Port Phillip Bay, MCG, Rod Laver Arena, gardens and cityscapes.

Photos Lorne to Melbourne

 

 

 

 

The Great Ocean Road.

The Great Ocean Road is 243km long, or 151 miles,  and starts  (officially) in Torquay and ends in Allansford. You can drive either way. We are driving Allansford to Torquay, primarily because we are coming from Adelaide and heading to Melbourne. We discovered an advantage of that route today as it is the road less travelled, less cars and tour buses going our way! Slight disadvantage as we hugged the cliff side and not the seaside for best views but really not much in that much in it.

The weather was not our best friend today. Started with drizzly misty rain on and off and ended with heavy rain.

Leaving Port Fairy and our lovely digs and breakfast, we passed through Warrnambool, the biggest town in the area, and notable to us for the large Fonterra factory as you drive in!

The most impressive features of the Ocean Road are the sculptured sandstone rocks and stacks,  largely found in quick succession in one section of the drive.  Our first stop on the road was The  Bay of Islands. A collection of rock stacks, sheltered bays, views and beaches, it was a promising start in fine conditions. The Bay of Martyrs was next and equally as impressive. Calm seas and clear contrasts of colours.

The Grotto, one of my favourite spots was next. It is a cave and sinkhole about halfway up the cliff from sea level. A path leads to a decked staircase that takes you down to view rock pools and the sea beyond the carved out of jagged edge limestone. Stunning.

The next formation, fashioned  by the rain, wind and waves, was London Bridge, which previously featured a double arch. Apparently when the inner arch collapsed in 1989, two people were stranded in the other side and were rescued by helicopter. The remaining arch has a large flat top, slightly tilted to the sea.

The Arch nearby is just that but impressive as it  hugs the cliff. It is the middle stage of an island transitioning from tunnel to arch, which will ultimately collapse to form two rock stands.

Lord Ard Gorge is a beach inside a gorge. It looks out towards the site of the Lord Ard shipwreck in May 1878. 54 people were on board. Two survived. The captain thought he was 50 miles out at sea! There are several walks in this area and two notable rock formations. The Razorback is very impressive. Aptly named.

The Twelve Apostles! The most well known formations. Yes there are 12 but you have never been able to see them all from the current viewing platform. To the west 7 stacks are clearly visible with a further 2 to the east. The others are hidden by headlands and other stacks. Only the 2 to the east are individually named-Gog and Magog. We got somewhat wet on our way out to the rocks. As you will see in the photos the sky is very dark and the photos also. There was a glimmer of sun briefly on the way back so have included all the photos as some interesting light and shade. Bit of a pity about the weather! Interesting story about why the 12 Apostles- see the photos.

We skipped the 89 Gibson Steps to the beach,  1.1km from The Apostles, due to the inclement weather. It would have been nice to view Gog and Magog from beach level though!

The next part of the trip heads inland a little through part of the beautiful rain forest of the Great Otway National Park. There are Myrtle Beech, Blackwood, Gums and tree ferns in thus part of the large dense forest.  Truly stunning in its own way and glistening in the rain! Decided at this point to also skip a trip out to Cape Otway given ever changing weather and poor visibility.

Got to Apollo Bay for lunch (halfway) and it teemed down. Enjoyed some more Mahalia coffee and watched the rain.  Just before Apollo Bay is the Southern most point of the Ocean Road.

Got to Lorne mid afternoon. Brief break in the weather to check out the jetty and the old hotel (1875) before dinner.

Unfortunately today was also too wet to stop at Kennett River to go koala watching along the Grey River Road apparently well known for viewing koalas in a patch  of preferred Manna Gums.

Great Ocean Road Photos

 

 

 

 

On to Port Fairy

A drizzly wee start to the day after initally positive looking sky! Slower start with brekky and then off to suss out the highly rated Mahalia Coffee Roastery. A quirky little destination cafe and roastery with a whole lot more including all things coffee related, lovely gifts, a children’s playground and outdoor eating area if it was fine! Bought very nice coffee to go and salted caramel yo-yos!

Then on down the coast for a quick stop at the cosy little town of Beachport and a drive along the Bowman Scenic Highway. Plenty of waves crashing into little coves – not known along here as the shipwreck coast for nothing!

Lovely drive through very scenic country, green sheep and cattle stations and glimpses of the coast, to Mt Gambier. Drizzly rain and a few heavy showers most of the way with some fine spells. Rain as we arrived at Mt. Gambier meant lunch first and then conveniently it was fine for exploring the Sunken Cave Garden and the Umpherson Sinkhole – also a garden in a sinkhole.

Sinkholes are formed when rainwater absorbs carbon dioxide from decaying vegetation on the land surface to form mild carbonic acid . This percolates through the cracks and weaknesses in the limestone dissolving the calcium carbonate. The cracks may then form large underground caverns which collapse and volia- steep sided circular openings known as sinkholes. Very pretty with vegetation, flowers, a cave and a waterfall at the Sunken Garden. Umpherson is a lot bigger with hanging ivy, rows of hydrangeas (unfortunately not in flower) and lilies. It is lit at night and apparently the possums come out to play!

Longer afternoon drive through Nelson, forest areas (reminiscent of the Tokoroa to Taupo drive) and rolling countryside.

Stopped in at Portland to see if the whales were visiting- they were not! Great views from the whale spotting platform though.

Some heavier rain but cleared by the time we reached Port Fairy. With more than 50 buildings classified by the National Trust and many fine examples of 1800s architecture, Port Fairy is a lovely little fishing spot  (crayfish and abalone) at the start/end of the Great Ocean road depending on which way you are going. Our accomodation is part of a property with a heritage listed house dating back to 1852. Douglas House has variously been a hotel, steam flour mill, post office and warehouse and is now a private residence. The property runs down to the lovely Moyne River and is downstream of a very cute little marina. Port Fairy has wide streets lined with nineteenth century fully restored white-washed cottages built by whalers and seamen alongside Georgian-style merchants’ homes, grand public buildings,  huge Norfolk pines and old stone churches.

We took a lovely late afternoon walk around Griffiths Island where a colony of  short-tailed shearwaters (muttonbirds) have their home. The birds apparently arrive within 3 days of the 22nd September each year, settle in last years burrow, mate in early November, lay eggs in burrows about the 25th November and the young appear mid-January. In mid April they head off on their annual migration around the Pacific travelling an estimated 15,000 kms in 2 months. Also beautiful scenery and a lighthouse on the island.

Wildlife viewing on our travels today – one emu, several dead kangaroo on the roadside, one koala, two wallabies, various birds and fortunately no venomous striped tiger snakes on Griffiths Island! (I wasn’t the only one looking out for them!)

Photos On To Port Fairy

 

 

Road to Robe

Great coffee and brekky at Codys to start the day.  A howling wind in Noarlunga today so my jetty walk was a little challenging especially out at the end and out of the shelter of the cliffs. Had to hang on tight! Could see how the reef would be great viewing from out there but way too churned up today.

Headed across the Fleurieu Peninsula to Victor Harbour. Lots of very green countryside with sheep and cattle stations and station homesteads and grape growing regions like McLaren Vale behind. (Need to come back to explore the tip of Fleurieu and Kangaroo Island).

Victor Harbour, known for whale watching and it’s horse drawn tram out to Granite Island was also very windy and not conducive to exploring on foot! Headed to Goolwa and it’s historic wharf for lunch instead. Another great coffee too! The Murray River empties into large lakes before forming a large basin feeding into the ocean nearby. Looked very tough today.

Nature requires the road to follow a long  trek from Goolwa around Lake Alexandrina and Lake Albert to carry on down the coast. The inland adjacent is great winery country and very scenic. The Langhorne Creek area has the oldest recorded Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world. Certainly saw some narly specimens.

At Wellington, about 2/3 the way around the lakes we crossed the Murray River on a car punt. Fabulous free service running 24/7. Just a few minutes wait for several cars and a cattle truck to drive off and we drove on.  Short trip across the Murray included a pelican viewing!

Apart from a stop at Langhorne  Creek, the next section of the drive along the Southern Ocean Drive was fairly long and unremarkable. On our right, separated by estuary, was the Coorong National Park and on our left more large stations.

Saw pelicans at Meningle while unsuccessfully looking for coffee! Sky was looking threatening and we abandoned our walk to the pelican breeding grounds observatory down the road  at Point Jack as thunder clapped and large rain drops fell.

Got to Kingston late avo for a quick look at Larry the Lobster (town icon representing the lobster fishing industry in the area) and also the old Cape Jaffa lighthouse.

Robe, on the Limestone Coast and one of the oldest towns in South Australia, was our final destination of the day. The rain held off til we entered town! On the southern shore of Guichen Bay,  historically Robe was a port town for trade and immigration with many Chinese landing to travel overland to the gold fields. These days Robe is notable for  lobster fishing and as a service town. Nice view from our motel across the marina to the harbour entrance.

A stone obelisk was built on Cape Dombey, above the marina, in 1852 to assist ships to navigate safely into the bay. The coast is pretty rugged out to the Southern ocean and it’s easy to see why there were a number of shipwrecks along the coast here. An automatic  lighthouse was built on higher ground in 1973.

Photos along the Road to Robe

Port Noarlunga

On the road again heading to Melbourne via the Limestone Coast and  then The Great Ocean Road.

Map from Adelaide, South Australia to Great Ocean Rd, Victoria

 

Short drive late avo to Port Noarlunga, a little seaside village south of Adelaide. Pretty dull afternoon though as rain sprinkled us.  Nevertheless, interesting weaving along the coast enjoying the burbs and the lovely houses along the way. Nice beaches along the length of Holdfast Bay – first two pictures in link below.

Originally a seaport for goods shipped from Noarlunga, via the Onkaparinga River to ocean-going vessels, Port Noarlunga was first surveyed as a town in 1853.  The deep water and reef,  markets for flour to feed the gold diggers and the beach made the area popular. The offshore reef offered some protection and a jetty was built.  Looking forward to walking this tomorrow in better weather as there are reputedly lovely views into the water below. It’s a popular area for diving and snorkelling.

The red sandstone cliffs along the cliff edge to the south are rather dramatic and colourful with sandy beach below. A trig just along from our motel provides a marker point for the surfies as they ride the waves.

Early history records whaling and smuggling activities along this coast. Looking down the cliffs it is easy to imagine.

Photos Port Noarlunga

McLaren Vale

Fabulous weather for touring today in McLaren Vale, a wine area south east of Adelaide. Countryside green and gorgeous with rows and rows of vines and views of distant hills and the sea. Some of the oldest vines in the country are in this region and date back to the 1850s.

First stop was Beach Road for a wee tipple, pizza and great antipasto platter. Place was buzzing. Best ever haloumi.

Checked out the lovely stone buildings and winery at Chapel Hill which was very nearly a wedding venue.

The d’Arenberg Cube stands out on the horizon and is a fascinating winery to visit. Funky, quirky even a little bit weird, the cube was opened in December 2017. The design is inspired by the complexities and puzzles of wine making and houses an alternative realities museum, toilet pods designed to represent bunches of grapes,  a restaurant and tasting rooms.

The museum is totally unexpected with very unusual exhibits – flowers and fruit scent offerings, a black room, 360 degree experiences, a red art gallery and various other very eclectic items. You have to see it to experience it including the toilet pods, lift and stair wells.

We enjoyed wine tasting in the 4th floor of the cube looking out through windows on wacky angles, admiring the patchwork couches and artictic wine bars  and then coffee and a cheese platter out in the gardens. Over 70 wines in the range and 37 grape varieties.

Darenburg.com.au

Dinner tonight at Africola – african food with a difference..wow! Yum.

https://www.africola.com.au/

Also got to see a little but of the alternative Adelaide tonight with way too many zombies out and about for a walk.

Photos McLaren Vale

Best coffee in Australia

Well so far!

Lunch today at a cafe run by a couple of kiwis,  just down the road from Chris & Ellen’s place. Great coffee(s)and food, nice chat and a lamington to take away.

https://www.broadsheet.com.au/adelaide/food-and-drink/article/clement-herron-opens-findon

Quick trip to the mall for Mark to shop though I did make small purchases given the opportunity!

Managed to get some photos on the blog today so have a look..up to Adelaide.

Great evening at the Royal South Australian Yacht Squadron. Beautiful weather and sunset. Nice dinner and we checked out Wombat II, Brett and Carolyn’ s  yacht.

Emus Crossing

Explored some of the toe of the Yorke Peninsula today. Awesome coastal scenery, pristine blue ocean waters, sandy beaches, limestone rocks and outcrops, reefs and islands, shipwrecks and wildlife galore. Today we saw emu, kangaroo,  numerous scampering  lizards and snakes (on the road- one curled up and possibly live and the rest dead and dehydrated).

 

Began with spectacular views at Daly Head-reminded me a little of Raglan with steep cliffs to surf beach, rocks and sandy shore. We then headed down into Innes National Park with it’s variegated and low growing coastal bushland. Inneston  is a historic town within the park that provided housing and facilities for miners working in factories producing plaster of Paris and chalk. Didn’t have time to explore this trip. The old mines are now lakes.

Met plenty of emu along the way including some very cute little ones with their stripey coats. Stopped in at Stenhouse Bay with its curved pier- previously a port servicing the gypsum mining industry in the area.

Views across the Spencer Gulf and a picnic  lunch at Cable Bay, looking out to Chinamans Hat and Haystack Island. Lovely sunny day with a cool wind but the colours in the sea were glorious. Nice walk up to Cape Spencer Lighthouse out of the wind and with stretching views back up the coastline. Heading back up the toe we visited Ethel Beach-great looking surf with demos underway and a shipwreck of the Ethel still visible in the beach. Also went to Pondolowie Bay-again wonderful colours in the coastal scenery and a cute little fishing village as well. Spotted Dad, Mum and Bubs kangaroo lying in the sun just off the track.

The peninsula has a rich history with a copper mining boom 1859-1923 and agriculture with the region becoming known as the “Barley  Capital of the World”.  Still a lot of barley and wheat produced and some big breweries  are located here. The Stump Jump Plough was invented here in 1876. You can certainly see how this would have reduced the back breaking work for the early settlers who cleared the stumps and limestone rocks.

Enjoyed wide  views across the farmland areas both cropping and merino sheep stations and a few llama. Windmills driving waterpumps and country farmhouses with numerous silos and outbuildings kept viewing fascinating and enjoyable. Such huge spaces and still in a peninsula.

Headed back to Adelaide late avo-had to give way to the emus crossing! They waited politely till we stopped instead of flying out of the bush as they are want to do.

 

 

Great scenery and tour with the outlaws. Fine driving over dirt roads and swerving to save all  the lizards Chris. Thank you All!

Yorke Peninsula – Innes

 

Yorke Peninsula

Roadie to the west of Adelaide today, down the east side of the Yorke Peninsula and across to  Couches Beach (east side) where the Ramsey Hill shack is. (Read bach in NZ lingo.)

Ellen’s parents have retired here and are currently renovating the shack for permanent living. Couches Beach sits just on top of the foot at the base of the ankle.

 

Travelled down- pies for lunch at Port Wakefield and checked out a memorial display for a WW1 flying ace at Minlaton. Capt. Harry  Butler flew his monoplane “The Red Devil” from Adelaide to Minlaton to deliver the first airmail over water in the Southern Hemisphere in 1919.

Yorke Peninsula

This area on the peninsula is known for barley and grain growing. Some lovely views out across Gulf of  St Vincent back towards Adelaide, though too hazy for clear views.

4WD adventure around the Corney Point area courtesy of Brett Hill. Fabulous coastline, a lighthouse,  rocky beaches, sandy bays and some dolphins surfing the waves. Lovely sun kissed barley fields, sandstone rocks and even a  mob of sheep going up the road. Scenes of NZ! Also toured around the area where the Hill family used to farm. Nice to see and hear some family history on Ellen’s dad’s  side.

It’s a lot cooler today with a fierce wind so nice to sit by a cosy fire tonight. Quite a change from the heat of a few days ago! BBQ dinner.

Photos Yorke Peninsula – Corney